Photograph by Alice Karayianni
I've built you a boat
To be the will that guides you
I'd be the way,
I'd be the one that holds you
Holds you
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| Casa Batlló (Gaudí's house of bones) |
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| Casa Milá (aka 'La Pedrera') |
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| Cathedral de Santa Eulália (aka Barcelona Cathedral) |
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| Notice the gargoyles? |
Now here's a little funny story. At Plaça de Nova, close to the Barcelona Cathedral, there's a building which features what are known as two of Picasso's 'friezes': El fris dels Gegants (Giants Frieze) at the front and el fris del Nens (Children Frieze) at the side. First funny thing is that when he was asked to make them, Barcelona (and the rest of Spain) was under Francisco Franco's dictatorial rule and Picasso condemned fascists through his art. He therefore refused to create any kind of art which would be put up on display within a fascist regime. His refusal was readily accepted; after all, there was Joan Miró, another worthy artist and great rival of Picasso, and he was willing to do it. Would Picasso allow Miró to have his work display at Plaça de Nova and not his own? Of course, as you'd expect, hearing this Picasso changed his mind. Putting all political beliefs aside, he created the friezes and here they are (photo below). The second funny thing is that he never got to see them in person because he swore to never visit Barcelona or any other part of Spain after Franco's victorious emersion in the Spanish Civil War (1939) and while he still ruled the country. Sadly, Franco ruled until Picasso's death. The friezes were designed on paper by Picasso and they were made by sculptor Carl Nesjar.
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| The two friezes at Plaça del Nova
The Gothic Quarter also features the churches of 'Santa Maria del Mar' (built between 1329-1383) and 'Santa Maria del Pi' (built between 1319-1391. It's funny because the former one was built by the people of Barcelona themselves ('built by the people for the people') and it took less time than the latter one. I was able to take better photos of Santa Maria de Mar but not so good ones of Santa Maria del Pi because there was a wedding and a market of catalan traditional goods right in front of it and there were too many people all around and my OCD hates it when I can't take 'clean', 'whole' photos of buildings. In fact I had that problem quite often because it's difficult to capture whole buildings unless you're standing quite further away and sometimes that wasn't possible because other buildings were in the way... (that rhymes!) Also good to note that on Saturday the 31st of October I witnessed 2 weddings and a 3rd bride and groom running around in the streets that night, posing for photos nearby a metro at Passeig de Grácia. Good times!
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| Santa Maria del Mar
Also good to mention the 'Fossar de les Moreres' memorial square which is adjacent to the church of Santa Maria del Mar and which is built over a cemetery where defenders of the city were buried following the Siege of Barcelona at the end of the War of the Spanish Succession in 1714. You can't see it in the photo (couldn't really see it in person either because of the sun) but there is an eternal flame lit on top of that red structure in the middle and the National Day of Catalonia - which commemorates the defeat of Catalonia after 14 months of siege - takes place on the 11th of September of every year.
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| 'Fossar de les Moreres' memorial square |
The Gothic Quarter is also famous for its 'La Rambla' street which is considered as the centre of Barcelona's city life where most festivals take place. It is a long, long street, filled with little markets in the central promenade selling souvenirs, flowers, local sweets, ice-creams, etc. and I was told that in the past it would also sell birds in cages. There were also artists selling their work, or drawing portraits for people. On either side, the street is filled with coffee-shops and restaurants, although I was told that it is probably not ideal to eat anything at La Rambla because it's a touristy place and the quality of the food won't reflect that of the rest of Barcelona. La Rambla is also considered to be one of the cultural centres of Barcelona since 'Teatre Principal' (1568) - the oldest theatre in Barcelona - can be found there, as well as the 'Gran Teatre de Liceu' (1847) which is Barcelona's renowned opera house. In this street I also discovered the 'Casa des Paraigües' (i.e. House of Umbrellas) with the dragon on the corner which I nearly missed. It was built in 1858, at the time when the Modernist era had begun in Barcelona and all things oriental were in fashion, and was once an umbrella shop as its name suggests.
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| Casa des Paraigües (House of Umbrellas) The opening to 'El mercado de la Boqueria' (i.e. Boqueria Market) is also situated at La Rambla. Well I took a photo of the entrance to the market but, sadly, the market is closed on Sundays so I never got to see the market itself... Huge disappointment but life goes on (I'm definitely re-visiting Barcelona one day). Plaça Reial (i.e. Royal Plaza) is one of the squares which lies next to La Rambla (Barcelona has countless little squares here and there, it's impossible to talk about them all so I'll only be choosing a few here and there). The square is filled with restaurants and famous nightclubs and it hosts many festivals and open-air concerts. Interesting to note that its lanterns were designed by Antoni Gaudí but he was asked not to make them too eccentric so they actually appear to be quite normal lanterns... who would have known. |
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| Plaça Reial
The second and last square I'll talk about which is within the Gothic Quarter is la Plaça de George Orwell (don't think there's a need to translate this). One would expect another impressive square but this one was rather dull. It was actually known as the 'Plaça Tripi' (i.e. the Acid Square) because of its reputation of people taking drugs and they actually built a little park for children in the middle of it with the hope of attracting more families to the square. The history behind it? George Orwell was in Barcelona during the Spanish Civil War and had fought on the Republican side (his personal accounts can be found in his book 'Homage to Catalonia' which I'm now quite intrigued to read). The square was built 60 years later in his honour for having fought in the war (not because of his literary endeavours).
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| Plaça de George Orwell
Next, El Born. Being in Barcelona for just a weekend, I felt that it was essential that I got a taste of the food at local places and not touristy ones. I think the only touristy place we'd gone to was by the beach, but hey, it was right by the beach. However, I was also interested in finding little local places within little streets and squares which only people who know Barcelona could have known about. So after having seen the 'Arc de Triomf', we got lost (in a good sense) in the little neighbourhoods of El Born, trying to find a cosy little place for lunch. And we did! We found this cosy little place at Plaça de Sant Pere which didn't have a fixed menu but a daily one which was written up on chalk boards outside. Needless to say that the food was delicious. Also, surprise surprise, we met another Cypriot there; it is such a small world after all. I was about to read the menu in Spanish trying to figure out what was what in Greek when I heard a man's voice talking in Greek, telling me he could explain it to me if need be. Naturally, I was thrilled.
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| The Arc de Triomf |
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| 'La Candela' (the place I was talking about) |
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| Paellas and sangría |